venerdì 24 agosto 2018

Ghost Tour in Rome #2 Donna Olimpia, a ghost called the Pimpaccia


Another roman phantom is called the Pimpaccia.
Her name is Olimpia Maidalchini, born in Viterbo from a modest family. She was ambitious, cunning and also beautiful. All this allowed her to become a social climber.

Olimpia Maidalchini Pamphili a.k.aPimpaccia - Photo by Passaggi Lenti 

She married a rich old man but he died early.
She married a second time, a man older than 30 years yet. Her husband was  Pamphilio Pamphilj, his brother became Pope Innocent X, after a few years. 
Donna Olimpia had become one of the most powerful women in Rome. Her dream  became reality.
Her palace in Piazza Navona was aroyal palace.

Pamphili's Palace in Piazza Navona. Today Brasil Embassade - Photo by Tesori di Roma


The pamphili's family  had many landed properties in the city, and not only, among which we remember the public park near the Vatican.

Her husband died but she became even more influential, The Pope trusted only her.
Noble and rich people gave her rich gifts to enter into the Pope's graces or even be presented with benevolence.
She was very hated but she did not care, until the moment when the Pope sat on the throne.

The Romans called her pimpaccia, the name derives from an ironic invective.
The ironic joke was written and hung on the statue of Pasquino, one of the "talking" statues of Rome
The inscription read "Olim pia, nunc impia" which translated from Latin means 'once religious, now impious'.
In 1655, just a few hours before Innocent's death, without him she could have lost everything, She filled two boxes of gold coins, loaded them on a carriage, and ran away at full speed. She never returned to Piazza Navona.

The new pope, Alexander VII, exiled her to San Martino al Cimino, ordered her to return the gold she had but Donna Olimpia refused. She died of a plague two years later.
The legend tells that the ghost, because of her avarice, appears in Ponte Sisto on the carriage, together with  loot of coins; in fact, this bridge connects the banks of the Tiber along the shortest route to go from Piazza Navona to Villa Pamphilj.



Ponte Sisto where Pimpaccia appears ....


lunedì 13 agosto 2018

Dante's Inferno in Devil's cave at Castelcivita


« Nel mezzo del cammin di nostra vita

mi ritrovai per una selva oscura,

ché la diritta via era smarrita. »


We all know this incipit... But what about gettin lost actually, just for one day, in a mysterious and adventurous place, and travel with Dante and Virgilio? 


photo by https://www.grottedicastelcivita.com/


Today we will guide you to Castelcivita, in the province of Salerno, where, under the Alburni mountains, the karst erosion has created an amazing underground landscape: the ideal natural set where a company of actors put on a suggestive performance, and they have no need for scenography, because the nature itself provided for it! It blends with music and plays of lights, to carry you literally into the story: Dante, personified by an actor, will welcome to in the cave and he will declaim the first Canto. With him you will meet Virgilio, who will guide you into the tunnels, through the door with the famous inscription


"Per me si va nella città dolente, per me si va nell’etterno dolore…"


photo by www.zonalocale.it


While you move from one "room" to another, you will admire the change in the landscape, because every "room" has its own peculiarity: a monumental stalagmite called "pagoda", the "Prince of Piedmont room" , with its column made of horizontal disk elements, or "Death wells", deep vertical caves almost full of water.

into the cave; photo by www.grottedicastelcivita.com


the columns; photo by www.grottedicastelcivita.com

stalactites and stalagmites; photo by www.grottedicastelcivita.com


The route is five km long, and the touristic path measures about 1.7 km; along the road you can admire weird-shaped stalactites and stalagmites: crocodiles, turtles, lemons, vegetables, also a Holy Virgin with child... They are really surreal elements!

Dante's travel; photo by www.napolitime.it


It's no wonder  if, in these evocative caves, you meet one by one Paolo and Francesca, Farinata degli Uberti, Pier delle Vigne, Ulysses, Earl Ugolino and other Dantean characters, who will entertain you with dances, songs or poems, and in the end... 


" E quindi uscimmo a riveder le stelle"

photo by www.napolipost.com

photo by www.ecampania.it



Another curiosity: this place, famous as "Devil's cave" , is also known as "Spartacus' cave", because, according to a legend, the gladiator rested  here, while he was arming the slaves against Rome. 


How to reach Castelcivita:


-from North: A3 highway, Campagna exit.


-from South: A3 highway, Petina exit.


-SS18: follow the signals for Capaccio, then reach Roccadaspide and continue to Castelcivita.





venerdì 10 agosto 2018

Rocca Calascio , fortress or movies set? More, much more



During a business trip in Abruzzo i could visit the fortress of Rocca Calascio .




Early morning I got up early in the paths when I got to the top I could see not only a masterpiece but also see a movie set , none special effects can make it so wonderful.


I admire with enthusiasm the beauties what it's surrounding  me - a spectacle of sweet beauty from part of me turned: a far east the green expanse of nature, shimmering under the rays of the rising sun; Gran Sasso and Maiella  immersed in the same radiant light.

 Why is the castle so famous? Movie set? What are you talking about?

The foundation of the fortress is probably due to the will of King Ruggero d'Altavilla after the Norman conquest of 1140 with a prevalent sighting function, even if the first historical document attesting its presence is dated 1239.

In 1703  a violent earthquake devastated it  following which the highest area of ​​the village was abandoned and a large part of the population moved to the nearby town of Calascio.

In the twentieth century even the last families left abandoned the village and the fortress remained uninhabited 

Since the eighties  the area of Calascio have been used as a setting for many movies. 

This is a short list:
  • 1982 - Amici miei - Act II ( famous italian comedy) 

Amici Miei Act II

Michelle Pfeiffer in Lady Hawke
Sean Connery and Christian Slater In the mane of Rose 
The success of Lady Hawke and The Name of the Rose helped to fix and recover houses, others have been converted to accommodations and ,also, the castle was restored and consolidated. 

You can also organize a holiday between trekking routes in the Gran Sasso National Park

Typical meal :


You can reach Rocca Calascio throught the highway A24 (Rome-Teramo) : exit at L'Aquila Est and follow the indications to S. Stefano di Sessanio and then Calascio.


mercoledì 8 agosto 2018

Ghost tour in Rome -#1 Beatrice Cenci

One morning, misfortunes  often happen when you least expect them and always happen to me in the morning, the world wakes up and discovers that Rome is a city of ghosts. Ok, the noisy, generous and happy Roman still exists but....
The problem is those ghosts, they haunt houses, streets, arcades, and many other places ... fiery carts in the skies, strange nocturnal noises, unexplained light phenomena and much more.
Ready to tour the ghosts ... or are your legs trembling ?



The most famous ghost in Rome . On 10th of September

Beatrice Cenci,  Count Francesco Cenci and Ersilia Santacroce's daughter  
After her mother's death at the young age of 7, she was forced to retire at the convent of the Franciscan nuns of Santa Croce in Montecitorio, together with her older sister Antonina.
Beatrice Cenci - Photo by Atlantide



She remained there until the age of fifteen when she came back at home but she found an unfriendly environment due to a heavy family crisis. 

The father, violent and angry, did not spare even suffering from the young Beatrice.


Even among the domestic walls Francesco Cenci behaved like a brute. He mistreated his wife and children, and had gone so far as to have incestuous relations with Beatrice.
He had been in prison for other crimes committed, but thanks to the benevolence fo the nobles, he was released very soon. Every one in Rome knew about the misdeeds of the Count, Beatrice had tried to inform the authorities of these abuses but no one intervened.

Cenci's Palace - Piazza del Gesù

Francesco learned of his daughter's complaint and he sent her and her sister Lucrezia into exile
The Cenci's brothers   (Beatrice, Lucrezia, Giacomo and Bernardo) organized a plan to kill their father.

In 1598 while Francesco stays at the castle, the watchman and the blacksmith (the first of the two seems to be Beatrice's secret lover) helped them to drug the man, pierce his skull and then the throat with a long nail and finally to throw the body from a balcony, to simulate an accidental fall.
During the investigation the papal guards found the body. The exam revealed it was not the wounds compatible with the fall.
A servant also said that Beatrice had ordered her to wash the blood-stained sheets, justifying it with her own menstruation, she became suspicious and reported the fact to the investigators.
The guardian, threatened with torture, confessed the crime; he succeeded in escaping, but a friend of the Cenci's family ordered the killing, to avoid other risks.
The farrier was almost tortured to death; initially he confessed, then retreated but died shortly thereafter.
Even Beatrice's confession was obtained under torture.
The four members of the Cenci family were then found guilty and sentenced to death.

The Roman people rose up against the decision of the court, obtaining a short extension of the execution. But Pope Clement VIII did not show mercy and on 11 September 1599, at dawn, family members were taken to Ponte Sant'Angelo, where the gallows for public executions were raised.

Ponte Sant Angelo

On the Sant'Angelo's Bridge Giacomo was tortured with red-hot tongs
Lucrezia (she was already fainted) was beheaded with a sword. Beatrice ended up on the hangman's block immediately after.
Finally Giacomo was hit in the head with a mallet, which probably killed him; but then with the same instrument he was quartered and his torn limbs were hung from the four corners of the scaffold, where they remained on display for the entire day.
Only the young Bernardo was spared, but he was taken to the place of torture to witness the fate of his relatives, before being taken back to prison and subject to the confiscation of his property (which were then bought at a ridiculously low price by a nephew of the same Pope!).

Beatrice was buried in the church of San Pietro in Montorio, although in an anonymous tomb (as executed).
 The people of Rome elected  her as a symbol of resistance against the arrogance of the aristocracy.
Even today, in the night on the eve of her execution, her ghost comes back to life with his own severed head in his hand.

In 1798 Napoleon conquered Rome, some French soldiers entered into San Pietro in Montorio, destroying the tombstones to plunder the sarcophagi of lead, including the Beatrice's one, whose remains were dispersed and never recovered, and - reportedly by a witness - l a soldier played ball with her skull.

Her sad story inspired paintings (G.Reni), tragedies (P.B.Shelley) and novels (A.Dumas, Stendhal).





giovedì 2 agosto 2018

Historical train

At 7 in the morning I enter in the station, my backpack on my shoulder, a faithful companion of my adventures.
I arrive at the platform and it seems to be back in time, to be the protagonists of an old film in black and white.
A steamy locomotive snorts, a boy hits me , he frenzy of running to see that rattling and whistling meander resting on the track.


The day is beautiful, blue and bright sky, a few minutes at the start, a short check she took everything you need for a nice trip in a historic train.

Where are we going?  Obviously we travel by train, but which train? Definitely not a high-speed train, indeed the opposite. A steam train or one of the first diesel engine





Let's take a step back in time. The history of the railways in Italy began with the opening of a short line at the foot of Vesuvius, the Naples-Portici ,just over seven kilometers, it  was inaugurated on October 3, 1839.
Over the years the various kingdoms, present in the Italian territory, opened new railway lines:






Kingdom of the Two Sicilies
• Nocera Avellino
• Various traits that united the kingdom to the Papal States and Puglia
Kingdom of Lombardy-Veneto
• Milan - Venice, it was called Ferninandea in honor of the Austrian emperor Ferdinando I
• Milan - Monza
Kingdom of Sardinia
• Turin - Genoa
Pontifical State
• Rome - Frascati
• Rome - Civitavecchia
• Rome - Ancona
• Bologna - Ancona

... and many more.


After the unification of Italy many new railway lines were born, separated by categories of trains, speed and travel times. The High Speed ​​revolutionized this transport system. The smaller stations were closed and the secondary lines were abandoned although they were able to connect the lost corners of the country.

This abandonment gave rise to the tourism of old trains. The sound of a steam train, the slow passage of the landscape by the window, the rediscovery of forgotten places, enjoing local products.

The FS Foundation promotes the restoration of carriages, locomotives, stations and infrastructures and organizes a calendar with the departures of these jewels on rails.

This is the link to the calendar 

Warning: tickets are in demand and it is often not easy to find them.

Some voluntary associations deal with the restoration of trains, restoring old stations, making tourist guides.

Below you find the restoration of a train carried out by Italvapore


















mercoledì 1 agosto 2018

Roman mistery tour step #7 Aesculapius Temple in the Tiberina Island


A legend talk about a ship (in 291 BC)  Rome was suffering a serious epidemic, this shp sailed to Epidaurus, a city sacred to Aesculapius, the most important healing god of Greece, with a commission

Romans asked help to the God but while the propitiatory rites was taking place, a huge snake came out from the temple and it went to take refuge on the Roman ship.

People was sure  Aesculapius turned into a snake, the ship hurried back to Rome but when the ship reached the island, the snake descended into the river and swam to the island Tiberina, where it disappeared, indicating, in this way, the place where the temple should have been built.


The snake

The construction, begun soon after,and the romans inaugurated it in 289.

The position of the temple would coincide with the St. Bartolomeo’s church : the medieval well, which still exists near the altar of the church, it would correspond to the source of the temple.

In memory of the miraculous event, the island took the form of trireme, with a bow, stern and even a mast, originally represented by an obelisk

One of these elements is the so-called "Infamous Column", the priests posted a list with the names of  people these could not attend the Easter Mass.  This custom remained active until 1870.

The water coming from the well was considered miraculous, people went to drink it  in the church .

All this happened until the Middle Ages when the piests analyzed the water and discovered  it was polluted. Water did not heal people but killed them.


The ship


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