'A chiena

Every august in Campagna, in the province of Salerno, a folkloric event, maybe unique in the world, takes place among the city streets:  the river Tenza overflows from its natural bed and it floods the center of the town, following an artificial deviation.

In 1889 the paving of public roads was fixed to prevent flooding in the buildings interested by the "chiena" (that means flood). Since then, the major issues a decree and he cautions the citizens, with the help of a town crier, to be careful if they don't want to get wet when the water arrives in town.

Photo by italia2tv.it

This is a very old tradition, originated maybe in 1600, when it was necessary to keep streets clean during summer drought, both to defeat the plague, and because of the presence of packhorses.

Photo by utopiacontemporaryart

Nowadays "a chiena" is no longer a sanitary measure, but it has become a spectacular kermesse, an occasion to have fun, consisting in three particular moments:

-the "secchiata" (bucket) : on sunday afternoons, beachweared, people in the street launchs each other refreshing water buckets, to have fun and fight hot weather

Photo by vesuviolive.it

Photo by Pompeo Ganelli, 1985

-the "passeggiata" (promenade) : on saturday afternoons and sunday mornings everybody walks barefoot down the streets, keeping  ankles into water

Photo by italia2tv.it

- the "chiena di mezzanotte" (midnight flood): in the night between the 16th and 17th august, you can walk through flooded street contemplating the starry sky. There is a very suggestive atmosphere, while you are entartained with folk dances and music.

Photo by informazionequotidiana.it

If you've read our previous posts, you may already know  that the province of Salerno has an ancient  culinary tradition; so, during the "chiena" days, a gastronomic event called "Portoni ghiottoni"  (gluttonous gates) is organised inside the most beautiful city courtyards, where you may taste traditional recipes as "  matass ''e fasul", a kind of handmade pasta with beans sauce, "ciambotta" , a vegetable soup, fried pizza with caciocavallo (a local cheese), local wine flavoured with peaches, and dulcis in fundo "spumone" , a kind of ice cream.

Photo by ecampania.it

We want to describe to you some of these  enchanting palaces that host "Portoni Ghiottoni" :
-the Augustinian monastery, that previously was a nobiliar  court, become in 1589 part of Church estate, nowadays it hosts the city hall;
-  Diocesan Seminary, a  solemn building arisen from the foundation of an ancient benedictine monastery;
-Maccarunera, a particular historical hotel derived   from a medieval mill, become a pasta factory in 19th century.

Campagna is an ancient city with a rich history; in 1532, the emperor Carlo V gave the feud of Campagna to the prince Onorato Grimaldi of Monaco, as a reward to his loyalty. Through the centuries, a link between the city and the princes of Monaco endured, and it culminated in the visit at Campagna by prince Albert, in 1997, to celebrate  the seventh centenary of the Grimaldi princedom, and more recently, in last may, to celebrate the fifth centenary of the status of "City" of Campagna.

Photo by asalerno.it

You can reach Campagna:

-driving your car: Salerno/Reggio Calabria highway, exit Campagna

-by train: Salerno station
                 Local buses